I have to applaud Stefanie. I never realized quite what she had to go through when traveling with Aaron until now. It is hard to really grasp everything it takes but I will try.
We left the comforts of the Hyatt in Xi'an yesterday around 4pm. We were only about 2 miles from the train station but carrying 40lbs of stuff on our backs we did not want to walk it. Being so close to the train station most taxi drivers do not want to take you, so we waited through about 10 cabs before one guy agreed to take us. Now the train station is at the end of one of the main roads and most drivers don't go all the way in to avoid traffic. So our driver drops us about 200 yards from the station. All the way to the station there are people sitting around, most with homemade looking luggage or sacks. There are also people asking to carry your bag for you, people selling beverages and food and some people just walking around. Now this might sound to bad but in front of the train station is an area about the size of 3 football fields and people are everywhere. People sitting, laying, standing, all waiting for their train. And this is where it gets fun.
They are not real big on lines in China. I remember reading that in Beijing they started a monthly Don't Cut the Line day to prepare people for the Olympics. At McDonald's the other day I had 3 people cut in front of me when I was trying to order. So you can imagine the fun that begins when the train station tries to funnel 500 people into a pathway that is wide enough for 2 people across. Trying to use our big bags and larger size, Justin and I got in "line" near the start of the metal gates. For a mental picture, think of a Y where the top of the Y is all people tyring to get into the lower part of the Y. After much pushing, shoving and lots of sweat, Justin was near where the gate started. I was a few people behind him. As Justin was being pushed into the gateway by the people behind he had a choice to make: hold the people off or crush the child next to him with his bag. I would have crushed the kid, but Justin held off, let the kid go then lifted his bag to get around the pole. I was a few people behind, having to cut some guy off who was trying to squeeze by. Through all this I was carrying the bag from the Hyatt that held our "dinner" for the evening. Somewhere in the fray it got ripped and was dangling by one line. But it didn't matter we were in the security area and people were actually forming lines! I was shocked.
Then the announcement came over the loud speaker. I have no idea what it said but I assume something about a train leaving soon. Suddenly our line crumbled and 5 guys rushed to the front. Then all hell broke loose. We pushed and shoved again, using our bags to clear a way. At one point 2 women carrying a huge water jug type thing using 3 poles over their shoulders got in front of me. I have never hit a women but I was damn ready to. But we eventually got through the line and into the building, where things calmed down some. We gathered ourselves at a pole until the security guard told us not to stand there. I showed him my ticket and he signaled for us to go through the door around the corner. Outside the line for our train looked about the same as outside, tons of people laying around, homemade luggage, no line. But through the doors to the soft sleeper waiting area was Heaven. All leather chairs, air conditioning, snack bar and no crowds. I had the biggest smile on my face and we got a good laugh out of it. The next group of white people to come in had the same shit eating grin on their faces and laughed as they entered.
We eventually boarded the train, settling into our 4 bed sleeper. We had bought all 4 beds, not wanting to share with anyone else and locked the door. It was an 18 hour train and it was only 5pm, so we started reading and just bs'ing. We ate our dinner which consisted of Pringles, Koala chocolate filled cookies, rice cakes, French rolls, M&Ms and a Coke. All the things a growing boy needs. The train made a lot of stops through the trip and after a few stops our locked door suddenly opened. The attendant looked in, then looked up at our 2 empty beds. Having read somewhere that trains in Vietnam or China will sometimes stick people in your beds even if you paid for all 4 we got worried. For the next 2 hours and countless stops we waited for our new roommates. When the attendant opened the door again we froze, praying. She looked in again, then closed it and locked it. We still weren't convinced and spent the time joking about how shitty it was going to be to get 2 farmers in there with us. We were not happy.
Thankfully it never happened. I fell asleep somewhere around midnight, waking up almost every hour as the train continued to stop. I finally got up around 9 am and decided I had to urinate. Now here is where Stefanie deserves every caret of her wedding ring. Opening the door to the train bathroom the first thing you notice is the smell. Stale urine. The next thing you notice is that the door handle is wet when you close the door behind you. Then you see the liquid sloshing on the floor. You try your best to avoid it as you position yourself over the metal hole in the ground and take aim, all the time the train bouncing back and forth. There is a handle at the front on the hole on the wall for girls or guys to hold if they must squat. But it does not look like something you want to touch if your life depended on it. Once finished with your business you again feel the wet handle of the door and run back to your room. I immediately pull out a wet wipe and grind the skin from my hands trying to get them clean.
Our train trip ended up being 20 hours and we arrived in Shanghai around 1pm. A quick trip on the subway got us to the start of our directions to the hostel. But they are quite bad. 150 meters turned into close to a mile, before we ran into 2 other people also looking for the hostel. With the rain coming down the whole time we were not happy people. We eventually found the place and were surprised how nice it really is. Our room has a TV, a/c, private bath, and a desk with a chair. Pretty much a regular hotel room at hostel price. Plenty of computers with free internet access, a bar with food and English movies shown nightly. We changed the trip around a little, giving ourselves 3 nights in Shanghai and 1 less night in Hong Kong. Should save us a little money in the end and give us more time to explore the Shanghai in Hangzhou area. But that can all wait until tomorrow. For now it is a good nights sleep in a real bed (that is still stiff as a board).
